Prevention for Piles

November 27th, 2009 | by admin |

PILES

Piles are swellings on the inside of the anal canal, the short, muscular tube that connects the rectum (back passage) with the anus, in areas known as the anal cushions. They are round swellings that can reach the size of a grape. Piles are not varicose veins.

Types of piles:

Although piles develop from inside the anal canal, they can hang down out of their normal place. Piles can be described as follows.

First degree piles are swellings on the inside lining of the anal canal. They bleed but can’t be seen from outside the anus.

Second degree piles are larger and stick out (or prolapse) from the anus when you open your bowels, but return on their own afterwards.

Third degree piles are similar, but hang out from the anus and only return inside when pushed back in.

Fourth degree piles permanently hang down from the anus and you can’t push them back inside. They may become extremely swollen and painful if the blood in them clots.

Piles Symptoms:

Pain or irritation while passing stools, bleeding:

Pain at passing stools, slight bleeding in the case of internal trouble, and feeling of soreness and irritation after passing a stool are the usual symptoms of piles. The patient cannot sit comfortably due to itching , discomfory, and pain in the rectal region.

Piles causes:

Chronic constipation, bowel disorders:

The primary cause of piles is chronic constipation and other bowel disorders. The straining in order to evacuate the constipated bowels, and the pressure thus caused on the surrounding veins leads to piles. Piles are more common during pregnancy and in conditions affecting the liver and upper bowel.

Other causes:

Other causes are prolonged periods of standing or sitting , strenuous work, obesity, general weakness of the tissues of the body, mental tension, and heredity.

Piles home remedies:

Piles treatment using Dry Figs:

Three of four figs should be soaked overnight in water after being cleaned thoroughly in hot water. They should be taken first thing in the morning along with the water in which they were soaked. They should also be taken in evening in the similar manner. This treatment should be continued for three or four weeks. The tiny seeds of the fruit possess all excellent quality of stimulating peristaltic movement of the intestines. This facilitates easy evacuation of faeces and keeps the alimentary canal clean. The pressure on the anus thus being relieved, the hemorrhoids also contract.

Piles treatment using Mango Seeds:

Mango seeds are an effective remedy for bleeding piles. The seeds should be collected during the mango season, dried in the shade, powdered, and kept stored for use as medicine. This powder should be given in doses of about one and a half to two grams with or without honey, twice daily.

Piles treatment using Radish:

White radish is considered highly valuable in piles; 100 mg of grated radish mixed with a teaspoon of honey may be taken twice daily in treating this condition. This vegetable can also be taken in the form of juice mixed with a pinch of salt. It should be given in doses of 60 to 90 ml, morning and evening. White radish, well ground into a paste in milk. can also be applied over inflamed pile masses to relieve pain and swelling.

Piles treatment using Turnip:

The leaves of turnip have been found useful in this disease. The juice of these leaves should be extracted and 150 ml given to the patient. It is, however, necessary to take a proper diet of raw fruits and vegetables while taking this juice. For better results, 50 ml of the juice should be mixed with equal quantities of juices of watercress, spinach, and carrots.

Piles treatment using Bitter Gourd:

The juice of the fresh leaves of bitter gourd is also valuable in piles. Three teaspoons of the leaf juice, mixed with a glass of buttermilk, should be taken every morning for treating this condition. A paste of the roots of the bitter gourd plant can also be applied over piles with beneficial results.

Piles diet:

Fruit diet:

The treatment of the basic cause, namely, chronic constipation, is the only way to get  rid of the trouble. To begin with, the entire digestive tract must be given a complete rest for a few days and the intestines thoroughly cleansed. For this purpose, the patient should adopt an all-fruit diet for, at least, seven days. Thereafter he may adopt a diet of natural foods aimed at securing soft stools.

Other Piles treatment:

Exercise:

A patient with piles must make an all-out effort to tone up the entire system. Exercise plays an important corrective rule in this condition. Movements which exercise the abdominal muscles will improve circulation in the rectal region and relieve congestion.

Prevention:
You can reduce your risk of developing piles by eating a diet with plenty of fibre and
fluids, especially water.

Reference: <a href=”http://www.healthonclick.com”> HealthOnclick</a>

devika
http://www.articlesbase.com/diseases-and-conditions-articles/prevention-for-piles-683591.html

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  1. 6 Responses to “Prevention for Piles”

  2. By Corinne on Jan 7, 2010 | Reply

    I don’t know what to use for mulch/weed prevention in my veggie garden. Any suggestions?
    The basic question: I don’t know what to use for mulch/weed prevention in my veggie garden. Any suggestion?
    The Details: I live in Maryland, Eastern Shore (45 mins to the ocean by car) Zone 7. The soil is very sandy and used to be a wheat field for many years before our house was built 4 years ago. We have horses and use a compost pile to mix in the garden. Our garden this year will be much bigger then any before because I’m planning on home canning allot of it. It will be at least 50×90 not counting the 40 tomato plants. I’m looking for something to use as mulch/weed prevention in the garden between rows and under the plants. I do plan on watering with soaker hoses and no overhead sprinklers to keep down the diseases and problems as much as possible.
    The Kicker: We don’t have much money to spend + we have a cat, dogs, children and those stupid voles/moles that dig tunnels throughout the yard and tons of grubs for the voles to eat. The sandy soil splashes up on the plants whenever it
    <continued from above> gets wet and will move with any water flow. Soil gets hot and drys out quick and will crust over.
    The Upside: We have good drainage and plants grow really well, weather permitting.

    I thought about straw, wood chips or similar but found out that’s the perfect breeding ground for the voles.
    I was considering 7-10 layers of newspaper but don’t know if it would work and if need to be covered with something.
    The good black weed cloth is too expensive for such a large space and the cheaper stuff doesn’t last at all.

    I want something to keep the weeds down, the soil in place and off the plants, and not blow, wash or drag away.
    Any thoughts on something’s that might work?

    Thanks in advance for your time and any help you can provide!

  3. By clintanjunior on Jan 7, 2010 | Reply

    I use newspaper and cover it with mushroom soil or tanbark. I live in Pennsylvania . The mushroom soil is easy to find around here and sells for about $15 a yard. Two yards of mulch fit in a normal full size pick up bed…That gives you an idea of how much it is. It works good and holds moisture.
    References :

  4. By byron101540 on Jan 7, 2010 | Reply

    cardboard or B&W newspaper
    References :

  5. By marianne_whitehead on Jan 7, 2010 | Reply

    There is a no-till method called "lasagna" gardening. You layer newspaper, compost, manure, soil. You could try that. Cardboard is good for the pathways. It is cheap and keeps down weeds. There are books about this, and if you do a search you’ll find a description of this. As far as the rodents going after grubs, you need to control the grubs too. There are products that are bacteria that affect only the grub, not any thing or one else. Your irrigation sounds good, and the thicker the mulch the better the moisture retention. Also contact your county extension and ask about a soil test as well as information on soil, compost, and pest control. That’s a big area to manage so make sure you have a plan. Another suggestion is raised beds so you can use the sandy soil to advantage for drainage and the raised part to grow strong roots.
    References :

  6. By mickey on Jan 7, 2010 | Reply

    what worked good for me was old carpet turned upside down. i got access to this from a friend who did home rennovations and always had a lot of old carpet available. I cut it with a carpet knife, and layed it down in 30 inch wide strips, leaving just 4inches for the rows between them. weeding was very easy with this method, and i never got muddy while working in the soil. Air and water can pass thru the carpet, but no weeds managed to grow thru it. you could cover it with bark chips if you wanted to, but theyre quite expensive and not really necessary because the underside of the carpet is a natural jute color and fades over the season anyway. I also tried putting black plastic under the carpet but found that mold was then growing under it, and the carpeting tended to slide around on the plastic, so i just use the carpet alone now and seems to be working fantastic. it supresses weeds, slows down evaporation of water, allows the soil to "breathe", stops the plants from getting splashed with mud when it rains, and allows me to work in between the rows no matter what the condition of the soil.
    References :

  7. By lazidazi on Jan 7, 2010 | Reply

    First, no matter what you use, one must realize that it won’t be an end-all, be-all; you’ll still have some weeds to contend with and the mulch application will have to be periordically restored [and from what all you've said, it seems you have the experience to know this.]

    Second, I wouldn’t use any inorganic substance – anything that won’t break down. I’ve never understood the recommendation of using plastic – just the thot of putting sheets of plastic on the ground – in the garden! – seems cuckoo. It iS cuckoo. And I’m sure carpet works as the guy said, but think for a minute about: cutting it to fit; how the soil is going to imbed in the carpet; what a mess when you do have to remove it; and how it will look! Not for me.

    With the issue of cost as a major issue, I would consider using newspaper. Besides doing a decent job of suppressing weed growth, newspaper is mostly carbon – a vital soil nutrient. If you haven’t used it before, it’s quite easy to put in place; just dampen it as you put it down so it stays put during placement.

    Then, the question is what to use oVeR the newspaper. Of course, you could purchase any type of bark/chips or bales of pine straw. Pine straw works pretty well, as long as you put it down thickly. I have used straw [horse hay] before, but found that the numerous seeds in it DiD germinate and created a bigger problem than I had BeFoRe mulching with it.

    But with cost as an issue, and if you have them available, have you considered using leaves? Leaves are carbon also, and break down very quickly. With the addition of your horse manure [nitrogen], you have a perfect soil amending mulch. Using leaves as a mulch, I would simply put some horse manure in with the leaves [rather than the manure already composted]; horse manure, on top of the soil mixed with the leaves, is not too strong so as to burn the plants – it will do quite well!

    As far as BeTween the planted rows, I kept grass; wide enough between planted rows so that I mow it, just like the rest of the yard. It LooKs great and is never a muddy mess, but rather, "outdoor carpet". Even if you’ve already plowed the entire garden area, you might want to consider NoT trying to mulch the entire garden area, but just mulching the plant rows. If it’s already plowed up, you could let whatever grows back between the planted rows, do that, then mow that; even if it’s weeds, it’ll still be better than having to mulch so much more; plus it will be green and look good because of that factor, aNd will be nice to walk on.

    Hope this helps!
    References :
    [not lazi] master gardener

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